Sunday, October 13

Today, sadly, we said good-bye to Teresa, who trundled off up the A40 back to Herefordshire with her trusty sidekick, Chico. Then we trundled in our trusty but smallish car up to the north of Pembrokeshire, toward the Preselli Hills, where stretches the charming Gwaun Valley. We intended to take a small and gentle hike.

One of the practical issues of sightseeing, however, is that one must find WCs (water closets) along the way. When we arrived in the lovely Gwaun Valley and found a roadside parking space, we discovered no public facilities and only a pub, which was closed. And a delightful red postbox.

Fortunately, a couple walking past pointed us to a small WC that belonged to a camping organization just across the field. And fortunately, that WC was not locked. So after a brief stop, we were ready to walk! Ruth, our faithful navigator, pointed us in the right direction. We found the path along the river, mostly dry and level, so good for walking.

A welcome bench by the bridge.

On the way back, we gathered small sticks for kindling, as we planned to have a fire again that evening. We gathered quite a bundle.

After our walk, we headed to St. David’s, about a half-hour drive away. St. David’s is the smallest city in the UK, so very manageable to drive through. We found the cathedral (founded by St. David in the 6th century). Finding a car park in the center of town, we found a coffee shop at about 2:30 and ordered a cream tea before going to evensong at 4:00.

Our first cream tea! Luscious, but I had to go back and ask for one more 

small cup of clotted cream. You can never have too much…

We were awed by the beauty of the cathedral and the ruins of an old abbey behind the church. 

I wish we’d had more time in the city, which seems a delight to explore. But we were able to attend sung evensong, which on this day celebrated the feast day of Edward the Confessor. 

The choir was excellent, the incense pervasive, the English hymn tunes unsingable, and at the end we processed to the chapel of Edward the Confessor in the cathedral, the prelate swinging the incense around his shrine till we were all trying not to cough while singing. After the service we sat and listened to the magnificent organ. 

Then home to a supper of soup and grilled cheese sandwiches and a warm, cozy fire. Another wonderful day.